Sunday, September 21, 2008

First week in Ziguinchor

My first day of work was on Monday, September 8. We got there at 8 a.m. and were met by Abba, the head of the Kinesitherapy Department. For those of you wondering what in the world is kinesitherapy, so did I! They are essentially the equivalent of physiotherapists in a land where Occupational Therapy does not exist. Anyways, we received a short tour of the hospital and met the Director of the hospital, Mr. Diame Bob. We also were quickly introduced to all our colleagues. I don’t think I retained a single name! The introduction to the hospital by our supervisor was short as he had to leave the hospital. About half an hour after we got there, he left and told us to start seeing patients right away. I was not mentally prepared for this at all!

The department looks like a normal physio gym. I had a panic moment when, in the same 15 minutes, I saw the place of work (physio beds, exercise machines and one lonely empty table) and was told that I had to start right away. Turns out, there are several items I can use for therapy; most of which was brought by previous OTs who have worked there, in addition to the things I brought along.

Seeing my first patient took all my brain juice! Why?
- its was bleeping hot!
- I hadn’t worked in over a month (was no longer in professional mode)
- I hadn’t seen a stroke patient in over a year
- language barrier: aphasia + accent I’m not used to hearing yet
- basic file: all it said was hemiplegic stroke victim
- 15 second blurb on the type of therapy patient has received thus far
- totally unfamiliar with working environment; what to use for treatment!

Even though my day at work finished at 1:30 p.m., I was pooped! It was hot, I was mentally fatigued and very hungry. The work schedule is bizarre: 8 am to 2 pm with no meal break. (Image left: the asphalt street near mine which leads directly to the hospital. This photo was taken in the early morning when fewer people are out on the road. Notice the state-of-the-art taxis ;) Seeing as how I don’t have any appetite in the early morn, it disgusts me to consume food before 9 am. But waiting until 2 pm is too long!! My walk back home after work is brutal: 25 minutes of fast paced walking (compared to the Africans!) in the beating sun and heat. (Image right: same road, closer to the hopital. Notice: dark sky: its monsoon season here so it rains more often - ie: once every other day for 45 minutes - ; people walking, donkey transport, taxi all share the road) Eating on the way home is not an option. Even though there are food stands and restaurants, they are all closed for Ramadan. When I got home, I was just about ready to collapse! After an afternoon meal (my first of the day!) of fish and rice, I took an overdue shower followed by a much needed nap :)

The heat here is so intense that at first, I took three showers a day. During the afternoon, even sitting still in the shade causes me to sweat. That’s just gross! I’m getting used to feeling sticky and dirty. It’s the way of life here :) The other reason for my frequent shower taking is because when I first got here, I was sick with diarrha. Too much information, I know, but it is a reality for pretty much any traveller who comes to a country like this. Its not that its painful, it’s the situations you get in as soon as you leave the comfort of a nearby, familiar toilet that causes the grief!

On last Tuesday (or the before last?!? – man! I have some catching up to do!), my friend and co-traveller, Marie-Claude and I decided to see what downtown Ziguinchor is like. We figured we’d eat lunch in a restaurant together after work on our way downtown. We walked and walked and walked – all the restos were closed for Ramadan. We ended up walking all the way to my home. Thankfully, Astou had prepared some delicious rice and fish and we devoured it voraciously. So much so that the afternoon siesta could not be delayed any longer! Our fatigue was so intense (in the heat and after eating too much and another day at work), that we took a splendid nap right there on the floor! It was kind of embarrassing, but try as we might, we could no longer fight the natural closing of our eyelids!

After our nap, we headed downtown, taking the city bus as the locals do it. We weren’t sure where to get off so we got off the bus as soon as we saw water. It was disgustingly hot, which perhaps explains the empty streets. Anyways, we saw a nice Toubab hotel called the Perroquet and decided to check it out. My ulterior mission was to find a bathroom and a marvellous bathroom I did find! It had a toilet seat, toilet paper!, a sink, soap! AND something to wipe the hands with. WOW.

(Image left: El Hadj because he is cute!)

Two toubabs walking alone attracts a lot of attention from the “artists” here who approach us to sell their crafts. Depending on your mood and how pressed you are for time, this can be perceived as a fun game or very annoying. Some artists are more sly than others: they approach you and engage you in a friendly conversation, establishing a relationship with you. Then, after about half an hour of “accompanying you to your destination” or “showing you around as a friend”, they pull out their blurb about being an artist and living by selling their items to toubabs.

Anyways, while we were walking, we picked up a few friends/artists. We got a pseudo tour of downtown. While walking, I got my first call from Philippe and was ecstatic to speak with him. Then, a sudden need for a toilet came again. This time we were in a not so touristy part of town so the option of finding a toubab bathroom was out. It was such an insult to have to hang up on my boyfriend to hunt for a bathroom :( I ended up finding one and, suffice to say, it was a very messy experience which involved fixing the toilet so I could flush the damn thing. I walked out covered in sweat and exhausted. The entire troop of “local friends” who were escorting us around all knew I had diarrhea. Haha! We laughed and they suggested their local remedy. Stop eating everything except these little biscuits they helped me buy. And you know what? It worked!

On the Wednesday after work, I had my typical lunch after work around 2h30 followed by my nap. Marie-Claude came around afterwards to rupture the fast (even though we don’t fast, we still participate…). My parents were interested in Marie-Claude’s living situation (she is renting a room from a single lady who lives near the hospital). When she told them the price she was paying, they said it was exorbitantly high and unacceptable. Landing said he would try to find an alternative in the coming days. Since we were having this conversation, I asked to find out if I owed my family anything. They explained that absolutely not. (Image right: picture of my street taken from the balcony) They take pleasure in rooming and boarding cooperants and that we did not owe them anything since we are contributing to their community. People from previous years had explained that since it is free to live with Astou & Landing, buying more deluxe products for them is the thing to do. Marie-Claude and I were in need for toilet paper so Landing escorted us to the Shell Select gas station where you can buy European things which are very over priced. It is one of two places in town where you can get toilet paper and buy fresh milk products. I bought a bunch of milk products for the family as a Thank you. Unfortunately, much of it spoiled in the following days because of the frequent and sometimes lengthy blackouts. Later during the night, Rama, my sister, helped me decorate our room with drawings my beloved nephews and nieces had drawn for me :)

On Thursday night, after rupturing the fast, I met up with Marie-Claude and Claudine along with a Senegalease friend she brought for a well needed beer. My! How I enjoyed that sole beer :)
I'll be adding more photos to this blog in the future so don't forget to breeze through it next time.

2 comments:

Lise-erg said...

Bonjour Mélissa
Je lis tout ce que tu écris avec beaucoup d'intérêt et de fascination. En 1994, j'étais allée à Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso visiter une amie physiothérapeute. J'avais visité l'hôpital, le centre de réadaptation, la maternité,un centre pour déficients. Je regarde tes photos et ça me rappelle ce voyage, seulement 3 semaines, mais qui m'avait beaucoup marqué. je te souhaite bon courage, bonne continuation; c'est une expérience hors du commun que tu vis .
Je t'embrasse.
Lise, erg ( la femme de Jacques)

Unknown said...

Hi Mel,

Cute to see you surrounded by Africans. Aren't the littles ones adorable ?

AM and I wish you continued success in your work and discovery of another world ...